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La Rambla |
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It is near-inevitable that one of the first things any
visitor to Barcelona does is stroll along La Rambla, the magnificent mile-long
walkway that cuts through the middle of the old city and leads down to
the port. Neatly reversing the modern urban relationship between pedestrian
and vehicle, it has often been described as the world's greatest street,
and it is certainly the definitive stroller's boulevard.
A Rambla is an urban feature unique to Catalonia, and
there is one in most Catalan towns. Originally, the Rambla of Barcelona,
like many of its smaller equivalents, was a seasonal river bed, running
along the western edge of the 13th-century city, the name the writing from
the Arabic word for river bed, ramla. From the Middle Ages to the baroque
era a great many churches and convents were built on the other side of
this river bed, and some have given their names to sections of it: as one
descends from Plaça Catalunya, it is successively called Rambla
de Canaletes, Rambla dels Estudis, Rambla de Sant Josep, Rambla dels Caputxins
and Rambla de Santa Monica. Hence, it is often referred to in the plural
— Rambles, or Ramblas in Spanish and English.
The Rambla also served as the meeting ground for city
and country dwellers, for on the far side of these church buildings lay
the still scarcely-built up Raval, 'the city outside the walls', and rural
Catalonia. It thus became a natural marketplace. From these beginnings
sprang La Bouqueria, Barcelona's largest market, still off the Rambla today.
La Rambla took on its recognizable present form roughly
between 1770 and 1860. The city wall came down in 1775, and the Rambla
was gradually paved and turned into a boulevard. Seats were available to
strollers for rent in the late 18th century. The avenue acquired its definitive
shape after the closure of the monasteries in the 1830s, which made swaths
of land available for new building. No longer on the city's edge, the Rambla
became a wide path through its heart.
It used to be said that it was an obligation for every
true Barcelona citizen to walk down the Rambla and back at least once a
day. Nowadays, many locals are blase about the place, and the street has
been well-taken by the fast food industry, but it remains one of Barcelona's
essential attractions.
... Sights of the Rambla are the 24-hour newsstands, offering
the Spanish and international press and huge quantities of porn. You'll
also see buskers, clowns, human statues, puppeteers,
dancers, and musicians working the length of the walkway, some licensed
by the Ajuntament and 'Rambla regulars'. There's street theater of another
kind in the shape of the three-card sharpers or hustlers with three walnut
shells and a pea under one of them, challenging you to a bet. There's the
portrait painter and the caricature painter and the poet selling his wares.
In short, all human life is there — along what García Lorca called
'the very spirit of a city'.
[Barcelona] [Catedral
de Barcelona] [La Rambla] [Sagrada
Familia]
[Parc Güell] [Vielha]
[La Seu d'Urgell] [Montella]
[Cadaqués] [Girona]
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